Tom Beecroft on gowns as an expression of self
Tengri’s founder, Nancy Johnston, recently worked with Gownsmith – creators of luxury dressing gowns and coats – on a bespoke robe made with Tengri’s sustainably sourced Noble Fabric. This project was rooted in Nancy’s quest to find a multifunctional gown, one that could be worn as a robe or a coat, with unisex styling. Tom Beecroft, co-founder of Gownsmith, explains more...
Nancy wearing the bespoke gown in Tengri’s plum-coloured Noble Fabric.
What’s the Gownsmith philosophy?
We go back to basics with our gowns, developing a contemporary take on loungewear without frills or fripperies. Just making gowns using great cloth, to make our clients feel comfortable and at home.
We take pride not only in creating high quality and comfortable gowns, but also on making a deeper, more personal connection with our clients’ lives. For us, this is expressed in the form of a gown.
Perhaps more than most garments, a gown is an expression of self. Whether styled as a lounge/dressing gown to be worn at home, a resort gown to throw on by the pool, or an outer gown worn as an overcoat, our gowns are worn by people for their own pleasure. A gown can be the physical embodiment of the feeling of being at home, an indulgent feeling of security, comfort and relaxation. One wears a gown for oneself, not for an audience.
How was your experience of working with Tengri?
We were thrilled to find Tengri Noble Fabric – a terrific cloth – and a brand that seeks to build more value than simply in the product itself. The earthy, natural tones of the colour palette, especially the undyed yarns, speak to a lack of artifice and a purity we really respect.
The care taken throughout the entire journey of the Tengri cloth, from fibre to fabric, also exemplifies the thoughtfulness that is so key to us, as makers. The authentic values of Tengri run through every fibre of the cloth, giving the wearer a feeling of what the Danes call hygge – cosy contentment through the simple things in life.
Recently Gownsmith worked with Tengri cloth to create a bespoke lounge gown. How does this gown manifest the shared values of the two brands?
Our first Tengri commission was for its founder and CEO, Nancy, who had a very specific idea of how to realise the values we share in a lounge/outer gown hybrid. This gown can be styled either as an extra layer while relaxing at home, tied up as a dress, or worn over everyday clothing as an overcoat.
The gown is made with Tengri’s plum-coloured cloth and lined in cobalt blue. To make the gown a little more special, the pockets are jetted rather than our more typical patch style, and the edges around the gown are self-piped, adding a subtle ‘border’. The slouchy nature of a gown and the soft handle of the fabric make an ideal pairing for a sumptuous feel.
Once the Tengri cloth was selected, what happened during the making process?
As with all our bespoke gowns, we spent time with Nancy to understand how the gown would be worn, and took all the measures required to create a unique paper pattern.
We then made a draft gown in a standard wool to check the pattern and balance, and only when we were happy did we proceed to take our shears to the Tengri yak cloth. At Gownsmith we work with talented and experienced coat-makers, each having years of experience working with Savile Row bespoke houses, yet even for them, the Tengri cloth was a rare treat.
The finished garment has the comfort one would expect from an unstructured gown, which fits properly around the shoulders to allow an unhindered range of movement. The thermal properties of the Tengri cloth regulate the body’s warmth whether you’re at home or outdoors, and the stunning rich plum colour adds to the soft ‘at home’ feeling of the gown. We’re delighted with the result, and more importantly, so is Nancy!
Gownsmith will be offering ready-to-wear or bespoke gowns in Tengri fabrics. Please contact Tom for more details.